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Pork, pig, swine, lechon, piggy; this animal is the raw material of this recipe, whose name transforms into lechona. This recipe is not suitable for vegetarians, vegans, or Jews; but it is for the majority of humanity that loves tasting different textures and flavors that can come from slow-cooking pork meat in a wood-fired oven for many hours.

This typical Colombian and Tolimense dish is preferred for social events such as weddings, baptisms, political gatherings, graduations, and more. However, because it is so delicious, it is also sold by the portion in restaurants and can even be found in canned form.

It is traditionally served with insulso and arepa, and for some, with salted potato. Insulso is a custard made with cornmeal, wrapped in bijao leaves or plantain leaves, and grilled alongside the lechona. The arepa used is the plain, simple white one, often called arepa paisa. The potato is cooked with its skin, boiled in water, and generously salted before serving.

How to Prepare It

The pig, of Arab origin that arrived in the country via the Spaniards, is raised until about eight months old. The animal is slaughtered, thoroughly cleaned by removing hair with heat, leaving only the skin with the fat, meaning the meat is deboned and stored in the refrigerator for a day, marinated with a blend of long onion or junca, garlic, cumin, coloring, salt, and pepper. When preparing, the marinated pork meat is placed as the first layer, followed by pre-cooked peas, and covered with more meat. The lechona is sewn shut with needle and thread, making sure there are no holes, and then basted with plenty of sour orange juice. It is placed in a tray to roast for 5 to 20 hours, depending on the size and quantity of lechonas being cooked—since multiple are often prepared at once. Once out of the oven, the fat or pork lard is drained, which can later be used in other delicious Colombian dishes, leaving it ready for consumption. It is important to note that this is the most authentic original version, though there are variations where rice or green peas are added, and others where the head is not cooked, called 'cojín de lechona.' The appearance should be toasted or golden all over the skin, and the head is often decorated as a humorous or folkloric touch, typical in Colombia.

The delight of this recipe is in the combination of textures—taking a bite of the soft, delicious stuffing, and then biting into the crunchy chicharrón or skin of the lechona—without forgetting the side dishes, whether it’s insulso, arepa, or potato.

The lechona is so popular that in the capital city, Bogotá, there is an area called Zona L where many vendors sell lechona. They all claim to have the best Tolimense version, including a dietetic version. Along the roads of Tolima, especially near La Espinal, they offer free tastings of this delicious delicacy with pleasure. It is so beloved that over 20,000 people make a living from the lechona trade, and more than 2,500 lechonas are sold monthly just in Bogotá.

Some say it is too greasy, causes weight gain, or is harmful; that is a lie—not eating it would be harmful, and lechona itself does not cause weight gain; those who gain weight are the ones eating it.